![\"\"](\"http:\/\/michellebrodie.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/03\/6857135338_7ff676cecc_o.jpg\")
<\/a>Saturday, March 10, 2012\nIt did not start so auspiciously though.\u00a0 I was supposed to land in Tuxtla Gutierrez, Mexico around 2:30 PM on March 9 and then relax around the hotel looking for parakeets or something before meeting the group for a pre-trip meeting.\u00a0 Unfortunately the plane in Atlanta had mechanical problems and was delayed two hours.\u00a0 I missed my connection in Mexico City and when I finally got on a flight from Mexico City to Tuxtla Gutierrez and landed there my bag wasn’t there.\u00a0 Aero Mexico offered to deliver it to the hotel “in the morning” sometime but I knew that birders would be up very early and I might miss them so I decided to just wait the five hours at the airport until the next plane was due from Mexico City.\u00a0 Aero Mexico gave me $1000 pesos for my trouble.\u00a0 There was little to do but sit and have a few beers until the plane and my bag finally arrived at 11:00 PM.\u00a0 I didn’t get to the Hotel Parmareca until after midnight.\u00a0 I asked at the front desk about the group and the attendant said they were leaving at 6:30 AM.\u00a0 So I asked for a wake up call at 6:15 AM.\u00a0 At 6:15 there was a call from somebody asking where I was and if I was coming.\u00a0 I said yes.\u00a0 Then 10 minutes later somebody rudely knocked on my door.\u00a0 This big guy was standing there glaring at me.\u00a0 I said “are you Michael?”\u00a0 He barely shook my hand and said let’s go.\u00a0 We were supposed to leave at 6:00 AM.\u00a0 I said sorry my luggage didn’t come and the guy at the front desk said 6:30, not 6:00.\u00a0 Then he relaxed a little and was nicer.\u00a0 What a bad start! I was exhausted to boot.\u00a0 We all got in a van and drove out of town a little way to El Sumidero National Park.\u00a0 We drove up the park road getting out at various spots to look for birds.\u00a0 My first bird of Mexico was a Great-tailed Grackle at the Oxxo, Mexico’s version of 7-11 where we stopped to get junk food for breakfast.\u00a0 Once inside the park things got better.\u00a0 At the first stop I saw a White-tipped Dove, Streaked-backed Oriole,\u00a0and Banded Wren.\u00a0 I was so happy to see a Streaked-backed Oriole.\u00a0 Now I don’t have to chase one in Arizona.\u00a0 Then we drove some more and stopped at another stop and saw Cabanis Hummingbird, Plain-capped Starthroat, Red-billed Pigeon, Yellow-throated Euphonia.\u00a0 The best sighting though was a Belted Flycatcher in plain view and perfect lighting.\u00a0 We drove all the way up and walked a short trail where I saw a Rufous-browed Peppershrike, Boat-billed Flycatcher, White-collared Swift, Ridgeway Swallows, Lesser Greenlet, and Greenish Elaenia.\u00a0 We went to an overlook down into a very steep canyon with a river flowing far below.\u00a0 We walked around there and saw the pretty Yellow-winged Tanager.\u00a0 It was starting to heat up and so we left the park and returned to the Hotel Palmareca for the buffet brunch.\u00a0 Then we departed for a five hour drive from Tuxtla Gutierrez to Jaltanango.\u00a0 Our driver was extremely reticent.\u00a0 In fact, he never said a word.\u00a0 We stopped at numerous stops along the way looking for birds.\u00a0 The road was pocked with potholes and it was slow going.\u00a0 Tuxtla Gutierrez is a large city of 500,000 people but as soon as you leave town you are back in the countryside.\u00a0 There was a lot of open space with mountain views and bridges over rivers to explore for birds.\u00a0 We saw Ringed Kingfisher, Amazon Kingfisher, Crested Caracaras, Ruddy Ground-Dove (another bird I have looked for numerous times in AZ with no luck), Green-breasted Mango, White-tailed Hawk, Tropical Mockingbird, White-collared Seadeater, Long-billed Starthroat. At the last stop we found several Fork-tailed Flycatchers in a field with a few Scissor-tailed Flycatchers.\u00a0 It was hotter than hell in Jaltanango.\u00a0 We checked into the Hotel El Triunfo and had dinner in the restaurant there.\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0Joyce was pretty interesting.\u00a0 She confided in me that she and her husband were nudists.\u00a0 She also told me that she liked my outfit and that I should be on the cover of Birding Magazine.\u00a0 Wow, thanks.\u00a0 It was so hot in my room.\u00a0 All night long\u00a0trucks were in and out of the parking lot.\u00a0 There was a noisy party on the first floor with loud Mexican music all night. I didn’t sleep much.<\/p>\n
Sunday, March 11, 2012.
\nA truck picked us up in front of the Hotel\u00a0El Triunfo.\u00a0 We all piled into the back like the Mexicans do for the three hour drive to the base of the Sierra Madres.\u00a0 We stopped several times and saw Guarded Trogon, Grayish Saltator, White-throated Magpie-Jay, Slate-throated Restart, Golden-crowed Warbler, Barred Antshrike, and some other neat birds.\u00a0 Then we parked, got out and had lunch and began our eight mile hike up 1800 feet on the Finca Prussia Trail\u00a0into the reserve.\u00a0 We hiked very slowly and stopped frequently to look for birds.\u00a0 The slow pace and constant standing took a toll on my body.\u00a0 The trees were full of epiphytes and there were many orchids and lichens growing.\u00a0 When we would come to an opening in the canopy we had outstanding views into the Sierra Madre Mountains.\u00a0 Many Brown-backed Solitares were singing in the trees.\u00a0 We stopped at one point and saw the cute little Tody Motmot.\u00a0 We heard the exotic Pheasant Cuckoo very close.\u00a0 Michael said it was dead meat but despited repeated “toots” on the ipod the little rat would not reveal himself.\u00a0\u00a0 However, we had better luck with the Fulvous Owl which popped right out and perched above our heads.\u00a0 Gorgeous owl.\u00a0 While admiring the owl some Black-throated Jays flew in but I missed those.\u00a0 We saw\u00a0three different Motmots– Russet-crowned Motmot, Blue-crowned Motmot, and Tody Motmot and heard the Blue-throated Motmot.\u00a0 We would have to come back for that one later.\u00a0 As we approached the reserve Jorge told everyone to be quiet as he listened intently for the Horned Guan’s low moan.\u00a0 We heard one high up on a hill but it was getting late and we still had three KM to go.\u00a0 So Jorge insisted we proceed.\u00a0 Up ahead of us on the path was Rusty Sparrow, Chestnut-capped Brush-finch, and then right out in the open a beautiful male Spotted Nightingale-thrush!\u00a0 Damn I tried so hard to see one of these little cuties at Wildsumaco with no luck at all and here was this one five feet away on the trial.\u00a0 Beautiful!\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0 It was starting to get\u00a0late and Jorge was getting anxious as the others appeared to have stopped at the hillside trying to see the Horned Guan.\u00a0 He called them repeatedly on the walkie-talkie to come on.\u00a0 We finally made it to the edge of the research station when we got a call from the head of our staff, Lico, telling us to come back up the trail.\u00a0 He had a Quetzal!\u00a0 I practically ran back.\u00a0 I looked for one of these marvelous birds with my sister in 2000 in Monteverde Cloud Forest with no luck.\u00a0 When I got back to where Jorge was there it was ten feet off the trail in fantastic lighting– the most beautiful bird in the western hemisphere– the Resplendent Quetzal.<\/a>\u00a0 It was stunning and beautiful and I was so moved\u00a0that I cried.\u00a0 I was a little embarrassed but Jorge assured me I was not the first person to cry upon seeing a Quetzal for the first time.\u00a0 It was the most beautiful thing I had ever seen in my whole life.\u00a0 We made it to camp, had\u00a0a hot shower, and Rosie our cook made us dinner.\u00a0 After going over the checklist everyone headed off to bed.\u00a0 The stars were magnificent.\u00a0 We were in the middle of nowhere in the cloud forest.\u00a0 What a great place; what a great idea!\u00a0 I shared a room with Joyce and slept well.\u00a0 I could sort of hear Michael snoring in the next room.<\/p>\n
![Resplendent Quetzal.<\/a>\u00a0 It was stunning and beautiful and I was so moved\u00a0that I cried.\u00a0 I was a little embarrassed but Jorge assured me I was not the first person to cry upon seeing a Quetzal for the first time.\u00a0 It was the most beautiful thing I had ever seen in my whole life.\u00a0 We made it to camp, had\u00a0a hot shower, and Rosie our cook made us dinner.\u00a0 After going over the checklist everyone headed off to bed.\u00a0 The stars were magnificent.\u00a0 We were in the middle of nowhere in the cloud forest.\u00a0 What a great place; what a great idea!\u00a0 I shared a room with Joyce and slept well.\u00a0 I could sort of hear Michael snoring in the next room.<\/p>\nMonday, March 12\nAt breakfast the guys were complaining about how loudly Michael snored.\u00a0 Michael complained about how loudly Marvin snored.\u00a0\u00a0 I was happy I had my own room with Joyce.\u00a0 We hiked the Palo Gordo Trail in the morning.\u00a0\u00a0 In the meadow outside of the bunkhouses we saw a Violet Sabrewing.\u00a0\u00a0 Standing beside the stream we saw lots of Yellow Grosbeaks, Gray Silky Flycatchers, Rufous-collared Sparrows, and Common Bush-tanagers.\u00a0 A White-naped Brush-finch scurried along the stream.\u00a0 And some Hooded Grosbeaks flew over.\u00a0 Black Robin and Melodious Blackbirds were at the edge of the meadow. On the trail we saw Tufted Flycatcher, Yellowish Flycatcher, Spot-crowned Woodcreeper, Unicolored Jay, and Blue-and-white Mockingbird.\u00a0 About mid-morning we heard a guan very close.\u00a0 Michael told everyone to stop and there it was the exotic looking Horned Guan<\/a> right over our heads in plain view.\u00a0 There are only 2000 of these magnificent creatures left in the world and you have to hike up into El Triunfo to see them.\u00a0 In fact, the Horned Guan is why most people go to El Triunfo.\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0 It sat quietly moaning for at least 20 minutes.\u00a0 While we were admiring it a beautiful Blue-crowned Chlorophonia flew in close as well giving admiring views.\u00a0 After enjoying these incredible treasures to our hearts content we headed back to camp.\u00a0 On the way we passed under a few Central American Spider Monkeys who tried to defecate on the others.\u00a0 Beside the trail was an accommodating Sierra Madre Arboreal Alligator Lizard.\u00a0 During a break Marvin told me that he had been in the Peace Corps in the\u00a0 first set of volunteers after President Kennedy set it up.\u00a0 I said I was in first grade.\u00a0 After lunch I was lounging around the meadow trying to film butterflies when Jorge advised me that some Mexican researchers and the head of the research station had arrived unexpectedly and Joyce and I would have to move into the bunk room with the men!\u00a0 Oh my god.\u00a0 We at least had a separate room with no door on it but it was right next to a large room with several mattresses on the floor.\u00a0 Ron had also been displaced but he begged off and slept outside in a tent.\u00a0 He was smart.\u00a0 That night after dinner Michael insisted that we all go to bed at 8:00 PM.\u00a0 I was not in the least bit tired.\u00a0 I talked with Joyce for a while until Michael yelled at us.\u00a0 Then the lights went out and the loudest snoring I have ever heard began.\u00a0 My god even Joyce was snoring at an insane decibel.\u00a0 Marvin, Joyce, and Michael vied with each other to snore the loudest.\u00a0 It was incredibly noisy.\u00a0 I did not sleep at all.\u00a0 I have never heard a woman snore that loudly.\u00a0 My god it was louder than a truck stop.<\/p>\nTuesday, March 13, 2012\nFirst thing in the morning I was standing with Marvin when a group of Barred Parakeets flew silently overhead.\u00a0\u00a0 After a delicious breakfast fixed by Rosie we headed down the Finca Prussia trail.\u00a0 We soon saw a Singing Quail in the trail.\u00a0 Later we also saw a White-faced Quail perched on a horizontal branch over the trail.\u00a0 Black-capped Swallows soared overhead.\u00a0 Then we spent hours trying to get everyone on a Blue-crowned Motmot way the hell up in a tree.\u00a0 Seeing it required you to snap your neck completely back in the whiplash position.\u00a0 The Rufous-browed Wren was much easier.\u00a0 As we headed back to camp and were almost to the meadow I found a Brown-capped Vireo.\u00a0 That night as soon as lights were out I stayed up as late as possible with my headlamp reading in hopes of falling asleep from exhaustion.\u00a0 It was no use the snoring was insanely loud again.<\/p>\nWednesday, March 14, 2012\nWe hiked the Bandera Trail very briefly until Jorge made us turn around and go back because Resplendent Quetzals were nesting there.\u00a0 While looking at a bush with flowers on it we finally found a female Wine-throated Hummingbird.\u00a0 Across the stream three Quetzals flew into the trees.\u00a0 I got a better look at the males bright red breast.\u00a0 We also saw Paltry Tyrannulet, Spectacled Foliage-gleaner,\u00a0and Rose-throated Becard– another reason I don’t need to go back to AZ.\u00a0 After lunch I got permission from Jorge to go on the Finca Prussia trail by myself.\u00a0 It was my best day.\u00a0 I hiked as fast as I wanted and went almost back to the beginning of the trail. I stopped where we had the owl on the first day and was finally able to see the Black-throated Jay very well.\u00a0 On my hike back I flushed several White-faced Quail-doves.\u00a0 While walking along two Collared Pecaries ran through the woods.\u00a0 Then I came across a small brown snake– a Highland Viper!\u00a0\u00a0 That night the stars were shining bright and the Milky Way was splashed across the sky but best of all was the pairing of Venus and Jupiter.<\/p>\nThursday, March 15, 2012\nWe packed our bags after breakfast.\u00a0 The horses and staff would carry our bags for us as we hiked down the Coast Trail out of El Triunfo.\u00a0 Rosie and the other staff hiked ahead of us to camp.\u00a0 I was so sad to leave.\u00a0\u00a0 We hiked about eight miles.\u00a0 Jorge asked if there was anything I would like to see.\u00a0 I just randomly said the first bird that came to my mind— Bare-throated Tiger-heron.\u00a0 I only said it because it seemed so improbable.\u00a0 Along the way we stopped to look for birds and found a Ruddy-capped Nightingale-Thrush, Orange-billed Nightgale-thrush, Rufous Sabrewing,\u00a0 White-throated Robin, Golden-crowned Warbler, and Collared Aracari.\u00a0 After descending nearly to camp we finally came upon a flock of Azure-rumped Tanagers found by Ron.\u00a0 We spent several minutes drawing out a White-eared Ground-Sparrow and a Rufous-and-white Wren.\u00a0 Michael tried to get everyone on the exotic looking Long-tailed Manakin but I never saw it.\u00a0 I did see the boring female though later.\u00a0 Once we got to Limonar the staff had already set up our tents for us and we just had to get our bags and put our tents inside.\u00a0 While others were showering at the make shift shower (a pipe running ice cold water from the creek) Jorge, Ron, and I hiked for a little while on the Coast Trail.\u00a0 We found a probable Blue-tailed Hummingbird and a flock of eastern warblers.\u00a0 We had a very strange dinner of spaghetti and refried beans.\u00a0 Marvin joked that he and Rosie would be getting married.\u00a0 Even though he is twice her age, he is already married, and she doesn’t speak a word of English and he speaks no Spanish.\u00a0 It became the big joke of the trip between the participants. I was a little surprised when Jorge who was bilingual shared with Rosie our little joke but everyone went along because at Marvin’s age it was obviously a joke.\u00a0 Michael became uncomfortable around it though because he said the truth was that somebody like Rosie would marry an old guy like that just to get out of the country.\u00a0 I felt bad after that for Rosie.\u00a0 She was very sweet and worked very hard for us.\u00a0 And she made delicious tortillas.\u00a0 We went to bed incredibly early but I had my own tent so I could stay up as late as I wanted.\u00a0 Michael instructed the staff to put my tent and Ron’s tent as far away from the snorers as possible and they did.<\/p>\nFriday, March 16, 2012\nWe got up early and after breakfast packed our bags again and left Limonar Camp.\u00a0 We hiked about 10 KMs to El Paval Camp.\u00a0 Along the way I finally saw the Fan-tailed Warbler.\u00a0 What a dandy.\u00a0 We also saw Ivory-billed Woodcreeper, and the beautiful Turquoise-browed Motmot.\u00a0 I was getting close to 100 new species on my life list.\u00a0 While looking for the Long-tailed Manakin (Michael said I could not count the female because she is so boring) I found a gorgeous bright yellow and green bird — a Green Shrike-vireo— Number 100!\u00a0 Wow.\u00a0 After everyone had outstanding looks at the Long-tailed Manakin and Green Shrike-vireo we stopped along the trail looking out at the mountain side for lunch.\u00a0 While eating our sandwiches a White Hawk flew by and a Black Hawk-eagle.\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0 Then we continued down the trail.\u00a0 After lunch we saw Olivacious Woodcreeper, Streak-headed Woodcreeper, Yellow-olive Flycatcher, Plain Wren,\u00a0 and Emerald-chinned Hummingbird.\u00a0 Best sighting though was the crazy looking Long-billed Gnat-wren.\u00a0 The last bird we found on the coast trail was a Pale-billed Woodpecker.\u00a0 About 100 yard from camp it began to rain hard.\u00a0 Ron and I ran to camp and got under a tin roof to dry off.\u00a0 The others soon arrived as well.\u00a0 The staff brought out moon pies and Horchata.\u00a0 It doesn’t get any better than that!\u00a0 After about an hour the rain stopped and the sun came out. We looked for birds around the camp site.\u00a0 In the borders we saw many Spot-breasted Orioles, Yellow-green Vireos, and Scrub Euphonia.\u00a0 In the trees around camp were Orange-fronted Parakeet and White-fronted Parrot. We walked down a trail with Jorge and he found the very boring Tropical Pee-wee.\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0 That night there was more snoring into the night.<\/p>\nSaturday, March 17, 2012\nAfter breakfast we looked around the trails surrounding the campsite and Michael got us all onto a Prevost’s Ground-sparrow and \u00a0White-breasted Wood-wren.\u00a0 There were also some Red-throated Ant-tanagers and Great Black-hawk.\u00a0 Then we began our short hike out of El Triunfo to a waiting van and our driver, David.\u00a0 We said good-bye to our wonderful staff, Lico, Eli, Rosie, and all the guys who toted our bags and carried our things for us.\u00a0 They were all so wonderful. I cannot say enough good things about them.\u00a0 David loaded up our bags, the mules and staff rode away and then were off down the road to Arriaga where we would have lunch and a much needed beer at a restaurant.\u00a0 Along the road we saw a Laughing Falcon.\u00a0 After lunch we drove into Arriaga and checked into the Hotel Ik-Lumaal.\u00a0 It was very hot in Arriaga.\u00a0 After it cooled a bit David drove us up the road to Mapastatec.\u00a0 Along the river bank we found a Citreoline Trogon.\u00a0\u00a0We saw Hook-billed Kite, Golden-crowned Emeral, Spot-breasted Wren, Yellow-winged Cacique, and Green-fronted Hummingbird.\u00a0 Then we drove even higher and found the gorgeously appointed Rosita’s Bunting and Orange-breasted Bunting.\u00a0 At a look out we got out and scanned the skies until finally a bunch of Great Swallow-tailed Swifts flew over.\u00a0 We had dinner at the Ik-Lumaal and then went to bed.\u00a0 Bob from Calgary wasn’t feeling bed and skipped dinner.\u00a0 My dinner choices were narrow.\u00a0 I could have the dried out fish again or the vegetarian option– cheese in a tortilla.<\/p>\nSunday, March 18, 2012\nWe got up at 4:30 AM and drove in the dark down some noisy roads looking for the Pacific Screech-owl.\u00a0 It was the only missed bird of the whole trip.\u00a0 I was amazed at how many Mexicans were up and at em at 4:30 AM.\u00a0 Scooters and cars drove by constantly.\u00a0 We tried and tried but never even heard a screech owl.\u00a0 When it was still dark we saw a Boat-billed Heron.\u00a0 After the sun rose we drove up Point Arista to Boca del Cielo and saw Roadside Hawk, White-bellied Chachalaca, Bare-throated Tiger-Heron.\u00a0 Ron was so excited to point out the Tiger-heron.\u00a0 Actually I have already seen one in Costa Rica in 2000.\u00a0 I had to pretend to be excited.\u00a0 We parked at a bridge on the road to Coazalcos and walked the busy noisy road looking for birds.\u00a0 Michael was shocked to see a Giant Cowbird.\u00a0 He said it is never seen on the Pacific side.\u00a0 It was perched on a cow.\u00a0\u00a0 On a telephone wire in the middle of town we found a Giant Wren. Weird.\u00a0 We walked the road and found more Swallow-tailed Flycatchers, Brown-crested Flycatchers, and a Nuttings Flycatcher, Band-backed White-throated Flycatcher, and as Michael and I were walking back to the car some Orange-chinned Parakeets.\u00a0 It was getting hot as hell.\u00a0 We checked out of the hotel and headed back up the road out of Arriaga.\u00a0 Along the way we saw Cinnamon Hummingbird, Ruddy-breasted Seadeater, and White-lored Gnatcatcher.\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0 We pulled off the well manicured toll road onto a rancher’s driveway and walked the drive.\u00a0 There we found Stripe-headed Sparrow, Couch’s Kingbird, Rufous-naped Wren, Black-headed Saltator, and Black-cowled Oriole.\u00a0 There was one Brown Jay.\u00a0 The owner came and told Michael to call ahead of time next time he wanted to bird there.\u00a0 It was time to go.\u00a0 We got back in the car and drove back to Tuxtla Gutierrez.\u00a0 We checked back into the Hotel Palmareca.\u00a0 After dinner at the hotel we went through the bird list and I counted up my new birds– 144!\u00a0 Wow.\u00a0 What a great experience.\u00a0 After dinner I thanked Michael.\u00a0\u00a0 He told me he thought I was a class act for never bringing up that odious asshole who shall remain nameless.\u00a0 That night I dreamed about fresh vegetables, chard, brocoli, and red-leaf lettuce.<\/p>\nMonday, March 19, 2012\nIt was the end of the trip.\u00a0 David agreed to drive everyone to the airport for 10 each.\u00a0 I was more than happy to pay him.\u00a0 I flew from Tuxtla Gutierrez to Mexico City to Atlanta where I said goodbye to Bob and Pearl from Minnesota, and then to San Francisco.\u00a0 I had had a wonderful trip but I was never so glad as when the plane touched down in my own country where you can drink the water without fear of Montezuma’s revenge and you can eat the vegetables and fruits.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"I had never been to Mexico before\u00a0and I had never been on a birding tour with a group before I signed up to\u00a0go to El Triunfo Biosphere Reserve in Chiapas, Mexico with Legacy Tours.\u00a0 \u00a0What attracted me to this trip was that it involved hiking and camping two things I enjoy in addition to birding.\u00a0 I didn’t really have any targets or expectations but the experience I had while there was extraordinary and I feel so lucky to have had the opportunity to enjoy this very special place with Legacy Tours’ delightful trip leaders Michael Karmody and Jorge and the incredibly nice participants Ron, Bob and Pearl, Bob, Marvin, and Joyce.\u00a0 I highly recommend Legacy Tours to anyone wanting a special birding experience.\u00a0 Jorge, the local guide was incredibly skilled at identifying the birds and finding them in thick forest canopy.\u00a0 But more than that I was so impressed with […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":2,"featured_media":0,"parent":856,"menu_order":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","template":"","meta":{"footnotes":""},"class_list":["post-902","page","type-page","status-publish","hentry"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/michellebrodie.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/pages\/902","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/michellebrodie.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/pages"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/michellebrodie.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/types\/page"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/michellebrodie.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/users\/2"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/michellebrodie.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcomments&post=902"}],"version-history":[{"count":4,"href":"https:\/\/michellebrodie.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/pages\/902\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":908,"href":"https:\/\/michellebrodie.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/pages\/902\/revisions\/908"}],"up":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/michellebrodie.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/pages\/856"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/michellebrodie.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fmedia&parent=902"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}](\"http:\/\/www.mdbrodie.com\/images\/quetzal.jpg\"){kind=link}
![Horned Guan<\/a> right over our heads in plain view.\u00a0 There are only 2000 of these magnificent creatures left in the world and you have to hike up into El Triunfo to see them.\u00a0 In fact, the Horned Guan is why most people go to El Triunfo.\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0 It sat quietly moaning for at least 20 minutes.\u00a0 While we were admiring it a beautiful Blue-crowned Chlorophonia flew in close as well giving admiring views.\u00a0 After enjoying these incredible treasures to our hearts content we headed back to camp.\u00a0 On the way we passed under a few Central American Spider Monkeys who tried to defecate on the others.\u00a0 Beside the trail was an accommodating Sierra Madre Arboreal Alligator Lizard.\u00a0 During a break Marvin told me that he had been in the Peace Corps in the\u00a0 first set of volunteers after President Kennedy set it up.\u00a0 I said I was in first grade.\u00a0 After lunch I was lounging around the meadow trying to film butterflies when Jorge advised me that some Mexican researchers and the head of the research station had arrived unexpectedly and Joyce and I would have to move into the bunk room with the men!\u00a0 Oh my god.\u00a0 We at least had a separate room with no door on it but it was right next to a large room with several mattresses on the floor.\u00a0 Ron had also been displaced but he begged off and slept outside in a tent.\u00a0 He was smart.\u00a0 That night after dinner Michael insisted that we all go to bed at 8:00 PM.\u00a0 I was not in the least bit tired.\u00a0 I talked with Joyce for a while until Michael yelled at us.\u00a0 Then the lights went out and the loudest snoring I have ever heard began.\u00a0 My god even Joyce was snoring at an insane decibel.\u00a0 Marvin, Joyce, and Michael vied with each other to snore the loudest.\u00a0 It was incredibly noisy.\u00a0 I did not sleep at all.\u00a0 I have never heard a woman snore that loudly.\u00a0 My god it was louder than a truck stop.<\/p>\nTuesday, March 13, 2012\nFirst thing in the morning I was standing with Marvin when a group of Barred Parakeets flew silently overhead.\u00a0\u00a0 After a delicious breakfast fixed by Rosie we headed down the Finca Prussia trail.\u00a0 We soon saw a Singing Quail in the trail.\u00a0 Later we also saw a White-faced Quail perched on a horizontal branch over the trail.\u00a0 Black-capped Swallows soared overhead.\u00a0 Then we spent hours trying to get everyone on a Blue-crowned Motmot way the hell up in a tree.\u00a0 Seeing it required you to snap your neck completely back in the whiplash position.\u00a0 The Rufous-browed Wren was much easier.\u00a0 As we headed back to camp and were almost to the meadow I found a Brown-capped Vireo.\u00a0 That night as soon as lights were out I stayed up as late as possible with my headlamp reading in hopes of falling asleep from exhaustion.\u00a0 It was no use the snoring was insanely loud again.<\/p>\nWednesday, March 14, 2012\nWe hiked the Bandera Trail very briefly until Jorge made us turn around and go back because Resplendent Quetzals were nesting there.\u00a0 While looking at a bush with flowers on it we finally found a female Wine-throated Hummingbird.\u00a0 Across the stream three Quetzals flew into the trees.\u00a0 I got a better look at the males bright red breast.\u00a0 We also saw Paltry Tyrannulet, Spectacled Foliage-gleaner,\u00a0and Rose-throated Becard– another reason I don’t need to go back to AZ.\u00a0 After lunch I got permission from Jorge to go on the Finca Prussia trail by myself.\u00a0 It was my best day.\u00a0 I hiked as fast as I wanted and went almost back to the beginning of the trail. I stopped where we had the owl on the first day and was finally able to see the Black-throated Jay very well.\u00a0 On my hike back I flushed several White-faced Quail-doves.\u00a0 While walking along two Collared Pecaries ran through the woods.\u00a0 Then I came across a small brown snake– a Highland Viper!\u00a0\u00a0 That night the stars were shining bright and the Milky Way was splashed across the sky but best of all was the pairing of Venus and Jupiter.<\/p>\nThursday, March 15, 2012\nWe packed our bags after breakfast.\u00a0 The horses and staff would carry our bags for us as we hiked down the Coast Trail out of El Triunfo.\u00a0 Rosie and the other staff hiked ahead of us to camp.\u00a0 I was so sad to leave.\u00a0\u00a0 We hiked about eight miles.\u00a0 Jorge asked if there was anything I would like to see.\u00a0 I just randomly said the first bird that came to my mind— Bare-throated Tiger-heron.\u00a0 I only said it because it seemed so improbable.\u00a0 Along the way we stopped to look for birds and found a Ruddy-capped Nightingale-Thrush, Orange-billed Nightgale-thrush, Rufous Sabrewing,\u00a0 White-throated Robin, Golden-crowned Warbler, and Collared Aracari.\u00a0 After descending nearly to camp we finally came upon a flock of Azure-rumped Tanagers found by Ron.\u00a0 We spent several minutes drawing out a White-eared Ground-Sparrow and a Rufous-and-white Wren.\u00a0 Michael tried to get everyone on the exotic looking Long-tailed Manakin but I never saw it.\u00a0 I did see the boring female though later.\u00a0 Once we got to Limonar the staff had already set up our tents for us and we just had to get our bags and put our tents inside.\u00a0 While others were showering at the make shift shower (a pipe running ice cold water from the creek) Jorge, Ron, and I hiked for a little while on the Coast Trail.\u00a0 We found a probable Blue-tailed Hummingbird and a flock of eastern warblers.\u00a0 We had a very strange dinner of spaghetti and refried beans.\u00a0 Marvin joked that he and Rosie would be getting married.\u00a0 Even though he is twice her age, he is already married, and she doesn’t speak a word of English and he speaks no Spanish.\u00a0 It became the big joke of the trip between the participants. I was a little surprised when Jorge who was bilingual shared with Rosie our little joke but everyone went along because at Marvin’s age it was obviously a joke.\u00a0 Michael became uncomfortable around it though because he said the truth was that somebody like Rosie would marry an old guy like that just to get out of the country.\u00a0 I felt bad after that for Rosie.\u00a0 She was very sweet and worked very hard for us.\u00a0 And she made delicious tortillas.\u00a0 We went to bed incredibly early but I had my own tent so I could stay up as late as I wanted.\u00a0 Michael instructed the staff to put my tent and Ron’s tent as far away from the snorers as possible and they did.<\/p>\nFriday, March 16, 2012\nWe got up early and after breakfast packed our bags again and left Limonar Camp.\u00a0 We hiked about 10 KMs to El Paval Camp.\u00a0 Along the way I finally saw the Fan-tailed Warbler.\u00a0 What a dandy.\u00a0 We also saw Ivory-billed Woodcreeper, and the beautiful Turquoise-browed Motmot.\u00a0 I was getting close to 100 new species on my life list.\u00a0 While looking for the Long-tailed Manakin (Michael said I could not count the female because she is so boring) I found a gorgeous bright yellow and green bird — a Green Shrike-vireo— Number 100!\u00a0 Wow.\u00a0 After everyone had outstanding looks at the Long-tailed Manakin and Green Shrike-vireo we stopped along the trail looking out at the mountain side for lunch.\u00a0 While eating our sandwiches a White Hawk flew by and a Black Hawk-eagle.\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0 Then we continued down the trail.\u00a0 After lunch we saw Olivacious Woodcreeper, Streak-headed Woodcreeper, Yellow-olive Flycatcher, Plain Wren,\u00a0 and Emerald-chinned Hummingbird.\u00a0 Best sighting though was the crazy looking Long-billed Gnat-wren.\u00a0 The last bird we found on the coast trail was a Pale-billed Woodpecker.\u00a0 About 100 yard from camp it began to rain hard.\u00a0 Ron and I ran to camp and got under a tin roof to dry off.\u00a0 The others soon arrived as well.\u00a0 The staff brought out moon pies and Horchata.\u00a0 It doesn’t get any better than that!\u00a0 After about an hour the rain stopped and the sun came out. We looked for birds around the camp site.\u00a0 In the borders we saw many Spot-breasted Orioles, Yellow-green Vireos, and Scrub Euphonia.\u00a0 In the trees around camp were Orange-fronted Parakeet and White-fronted Parrot. We walked down a trail with Jorge and he found the very boring Tropical Pee-wee.\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0 That night there was more snoring into the night.<\/p>\nSaturday, March 17, 2012\nAfter breakfast we looked around the trails surrounding the campsite and Michael got us all onto a Prevost’s Ground-sparrow and \u00a0White-breasted Wood-wren.\u00a0 There were also some Red-throated Ant-tanagers and Great Black-hawk.\u00a0 Then we began our short hike out of El Triunfo to a waiting van and our driver, David.\u00a0 We said good-bye to our wonderful staff, Lico, Eli, Rosie, and all the guys who toted our bags and carried our things for us.\u00a0 They were all so wonderful. I cannot say enough good things about them.\u00a0 David loaded up our bags, the mules and staff rode away and then were off down the road to Arriaga where we would have lunch and a much needed beer at a restaurant.\u00a0 Along the road we saw a Laughing Falcon.\u00a0 After lunch we drove into Arriaga and checked into the Hotel Ik-Lumaal.\u00a0 It was very hot in Arriaga.\u00a0 After it cooled a bit David drove us up the road to Mapastatec.\u00a0 Along the river bank we found a Citreoline Trogon.\u00a0\u00a0We saw Hook-billed Kite, Golden-crowned Emeral, Spot-breasted Wren, Yellow-winged Cacique, and Green-fronted Hummingbird.\u00a0 Then we drove even higher and found the gorgeously appointed Rosita’s Bunting and Orange-breasted Bunting.\u00a0 At a look out we got out and scanned the skies until finally a bunch of Great Swallow-tailed Swifts flew over.\u00a0 We had dinner at the Ik-Lumaal and then went to bed.\u00a0 Bob from Calgary wasn’t feeling bed and skipped dinner.\u00a0 My dinner choices were narrow.\u00a0 I could have the dried out fish again or the vegetarian option– cheese in a tortilla.<\/p>\nSunday, March 18, 2012\nWe got up at 4:30 AM and drove in the dark down some noisy roads looking for the Pacific Screech-owl.\u00a0 It was the only missed bird of the whole trip.\u00a0 I was amazed at how many Mexicans were up and at em at 4:30 AM.\u00a0 Scooters and cars drove by constantly.\u00a0 We tried and tried but never even heard a screech owl.\u00a0 When it was still dark we saw a Boat-billed Heron.\u00a0 After the sun rose we drove up Point Arista to Boca del Cielo and saw Roadside Hawk, White-bellied Chachalaca, Bare-throated Tiger-Heron.\u00a0 Ron was so excited to point out the Tiger-heron.\u00a0 Actually I have already seen one in Costa Rica in 2000.\u00a0 I had to pretend to be excited.\u00a0 We parked at a bridge on the road to Coazalcos and walked the busy noisy road looking for birds.\u00a0 Michael was shocked to see a Giant Cowbird.\u00a0 He said it is never seen on the Pacific side.\u00a0 It was perched on a cow.\u00a0\u00a0 On a telephone wire in the middle of town we found a Giant Wren. Weird.\u00a0 We walked the road and found more Swallow-tailed Flycatchers, Brown-crested Flycatchers, and a Nuttings Flycatcher, Band-backed White-throated Flycatcher, and as Michael and I were walking back to the car some Orange-chinned Parakeets.\u00a0 It was getting hot as hell.\u00a0 We checked out of the hotel and headed back up the road out of Arriaga.\u00a0 Along the way we saw Cinnamon Hummingbird, Ruddy-breasted Seadeater, and White-lored Gnatcatcher.\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0 We pulled off the well manicured toll road onto a rancher’s driveway and walked the drive.\u00a0 There we found Stripe-headed Sparrow, Couch’s Kingbird, Rufous-naped Wren, Black-headed Saltator, and Black-cowled Oriole.\u00a0 There was one Brown Jay.\u00a0 The owner came and told Michael to call ahead of time next time he wanted to bird there.\u00a0 It was time to go.\u00a0 We got back in the car and drove back to Tuxtla Gutierrez.\u00a0 We checked back into the Hotel Palmareca.\u00a0 After dinner at the hotel we went through the bird list and I counted up my new birds– 144!\u00a0 Wow.\u00a0 What a great experience.\u00a0 After dinner I thanked Michael.\u00a0\u00a0 He told me he thought I was a class act for never bringing up that odious asshole who shall remain nameless.\u00a0 That night I dreamed about fresh vegetables, chard, brocoli, and red-leaf lettuce.<\/p>\nMonday, March 19, 2012\nIt was the end of the trip.\u00a0 David agreed to drive everyone to the airport for 10 each.\u00a0 I was more than happy to pay him.\u00a0 I flew from Tuxtla Gutierrez to Mexico City to Atlanta where I said goodbye to Bob and Pearl from Minnesota, and then to San Francisco.\u00a0 I had had a wonderful trip but I was never so glad as when the plane touched down in my own country where you can drink the water without fear of Montezuma’s revenge and you can eat the vegetables and fruits.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"I had never been to Mexico before\u00a0and I had never been on a birding tour with a group before I signed up to\u00a0go to El Triunfo Biosphere Reserve in Chiapas, Mexico with Legacy Tours.\u00a0 \u00a0What attracted me to this trip was that it involved hiking and camping two things I enjoy in addition to birding.\u00a0 I didn’t really have any targets or expectations but the experience I had while there was extraordinary and I feel so lucky to have had the opportunity to enjoy this very special place with Legacy Tours’ delightful trip leaders Michael Karmody and Jorge and the incredibly nice participants Ron, Bob and Pearl, Bob, Marvin, and Joyce.\u00a0 I highly recommend Legacy Tours to anyone wanting a special birding experience.\u00a0 Jorge, the local guide was incredibly skilled at identifying the birds and finding them in thick forest canopy.\u00a0 But more than that I was so impressed with […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":2,"featured_media":0,"parent":856,"menu_order":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","template":"","meta":{"footnotes":""},"class_list":["post-902","page","type-page","status-publish","hentry"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/michellebrodie.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/pages\/902","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/michellebrodie.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/pages"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/michellebrodie.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/types\/page"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/michellebrodie.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/users\/2"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/michellebrodie.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcomments&post=902"}],"version-history":[{"count":4,"href":"https:\/\/michellebrodie.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/pages\/902\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":908,"href":"https:\/\/michellebrodie.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/pages\/902\/revisions\/908"}],"up":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/michellebrodie.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/pages\/856"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/michellebrodie.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fmedia&parent=902"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}](\"http:\/\/www.mdbrodie.com\/images\/hornedguan.jpg\"){kind=link}